Introduction

Congratulations on your new Chonky Spood and welcome to the wonderful world of jumping spiders!
This care guide covers the basics you need to keep your spider healthy and comfortable. You can always reach out to me
through social media (@chonkyspoods on Instagram, Facebook & TikTok) or by email: chonkyspoods@gmail.com if you have
further questions or are facing an emergency.

Starter Supplies (*starter kit included with every spood order*):

Soft paintbrush - If you ever need to move your spood, a soft paintbrush is gentle and safe.
Only use it when you can’t guide them by hand because some spiders can react defensively.

Fine mist spray bottle - A small fine mist bottle to aid with hydration and humidity control.

Plastic tweezers - Occasionally a shed doesn’t come off cleanly. Tweezers let you remove stuck exoskeleton carefully when
needed. Also useful for offering food directly without having to reach inside.


Enclosures & Decor

Jumping spiders don’t need large setups to thrive! A small enclosure may seem cruel however these types of spiders can
become withdrawn in oversized spaces leading them to hide in their hammocks, or in the case of young jumpers, struggle to
find theirfood. Larger species like Regius and Audax typically won’t need anything larger than a 4x4x8. Juveniles (i5-i7) do well in a 3x3x4,
3x3x6 or 4x4x4 enclosure while Subadults-Adults (i8-i12) do well in a 3.5x3.5x6, 4x4x6, 4x4x8 or 5x5x5. Particularly large and
active Phidippus species may enjoy a 5x5x7 or 6x6x10. Adequate cross ventilation on both sides is critical for oxygen exchange
and successful molts. Ventilation on top is preferable as well but avoid top opening lids. Jumping spiders are arboreal and build
their hammocks high up in the canopy of their enclosures. Front or side opening designs allow routine care without destroying
their hammock and disrupting their safe space.

For substrate, we personally like to use coconut fiber that comes in a roll at the bottom of our enclosures however we do not
recommend soil or other organic substrate unless your goal is a bioactive enclosure. You may decorate your enclosure anyway
you like, the possibilities are endless! From dollhouse chic to naturalistic, as long as your spood has their basic needs met,
they’re not picky about their living situation. They only ask for plenty of things to climb and places to anchor their webs. Wash
any new items you buy with hot water and mild dish soap, rinsing for a minimum of 30 seconds with clean, running water. I also
like to let new items (especially plastic flowers) air out in a warm room for at least 72HRS. Make sure all decor is free from sharp
edges or materials that may transfer onto your spood, like glitter. Porous or painted decorations (paper, wood, etc.) should be
sealed with Duraclear or Mod Podge to prevent moisture problems and paint leaching.
We also always recommend a hide of some sort for your jumper, particularly one that is hollow from front to back. We’ve created
the perfect 3D printed hollow heart hide that even our pickiest spoods can’t deny! The Chonky Heart is Available in an array of
colors, and three different sizes.

Feeding: What to Feed & How Often?

Acceptable feeders include red runner roaches, dubia roaches, house flies, blue bottle flies, blue bottle fly spikes, mealworms,
lesser worms, peanut beetle larvae, waxworms (sparingly), silkworms, hornworms. Match prey to spider size. Always place
mealworms and peanut worms in an escape proof dish so they don’t burrow and pupate into beetles, which can injure or sicken
spiders. (Disclaimer: you can feed appropriately sized crickets however we do not recommend them as a feeder in general for
multiple reasons.) *UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES FEED WILD CAUGHT BUGS!*

Juveniles (i6-i7): Feed based on abdomen size rather than a fixed schedule. Their abdomen should be 20-30% larger than the
carapace. When it begins to look teardrop shaped, offer food. At this size they can be offered house flies, peanut beetle larvae
(*larvae only, beetles are not edible) , mini/small mealworms, lesser worms, wax moths, xs/small dubia or red runner roaches.

Subadults (i8-i12}: Feed based on abdomen size rather than a fixed schedule. Their abdomen
should be 20-30% larger than the carapace. When it begins to look teardrop shaped, offer food. At this stage, they can be
offered small mealworms, peanut beetle larvae (*larvae only, beetles are not edible), lesser worms, small dubia or red runner
roaches, small silkworms, small hornworms, house flies, blue bottle fly spikes, and blue bottle flies.

Adults: Similar to subadults but capable of taking slightly larger prey items. Even though they can handle prey two to three
times their size, they will overeat if allowed. Adults usually do well with eating once a week or so however still pay attention to
abdomen size.

Many adults may go for weeks without a meal. Males will also have a narrower abdomen once fully mature.
Females laying or guarding eggs may fast for weeks and mature males may go off food for long periods of up to a month before
they eat. Continue to offer occasionally; they will resume when ready. Never leave crickets, roaches, or mealworms overnight
with your spood unless inside an escape free food dish. They can seriously maim or kill your spider.

Some spiders can be intimidated by larger prey and may refuse a meal, strike & run, or throw their arms up defensively. In this
case you can try a different or smaller feeder. Mature males may also become picky, preferring blue bottle flies over all other
feeders.

Where To Purchase Feeders:

Chonky Spoods has feeders! Mini/small mealworms, red runner roaches, peanut beetle cultures, and blue bottle pupae.
www.rainbowmealworms.com - mealworms (all sizes), blue bottle spikes
www.spiderpharm.com - house fly spikes and pupae
www.spoodfood.com - fruit fly cultures, house fly pupae, lesser worms
www.tcinsects.com - red runner roaches, dubia roaches, silkworms, hornworms, mealworms (all sizes)